8.07.2009

LES VAGUES






I was 15 when I started surfing. It is one of the most beautiful (and violent, difficult, frustrating) things I have ever done. I remember that I had an instructor who once told us: when you paddle out to a safer zone (behind the waves), it's just like in real life. If a bigger wave suddenly rises in front of you, you can decide to give up because you're tired; dive, be shaken and dragged 10 meters back -and start all over again. And that's fine. Or you can find the resources to paddle harder for a few seconds, even if you shoulders are already painful. That last effort can take you to a safe zone; you'll fly over the wave feeling weightless, and hear it break right behind you... until the next one.

3 comments:

Kevin Kunishi said...

Ahhh so true....I could almost imagine sneaking into and getting barreled on #2!! Bummed we never went surfing when you were here in SF. I miss hossegor, Lacanua, and biarrritz, living off Jamon and fromage baguetes :)

Kevin Kunishi said...

I mean #3 :)

Agathe Philbé said...

ahaha yeah, these were shot in Lacanau... but dude SF was soooo cold, I think I'm not brave enough for the northern cali waves! Hope you're doing good :-)