I was 15 when I started surfing. It is one of the most beautiful (and violent, difficult, frustrating) things I have ever done. I remember that I had an instructor who once told us: when you paddle out to a safer zone (behind the waves), it's just like in real life. If a bigger wave suddenly rises in front of you, you can decide to give up because you're tired; dive, be shaken and dragged 10 meters back -and start all over again. And that's fine. Or you can find the resources to paddle harder for a few seconds, even if you shoulders are already painful. That last effort can take you to a safe zone; you'll fly over the wave feeling weightless, and hear it break right behind you... until the next one.


Kevin Kunishi said...

Ahhh so true....I could almost imagine sneaking into and getting barreled on #2!! Bummed we never went surfing when you were here in SF. I miss hossegor, Lacanua, and biarrritz, living off Jamon and fromage baguetes :)

Kevin Kunishi said...

I mean #3 :)

Agathe Philbé said...

ahaha yeah, these were shot in Lacanau... but dude SF was soooo cold, I think I'm not brave enough for the northern cali waves! Hope you're doing good :-)